Monday, November 23, 2009

New York - where?

Decision one. Where do we stay?



We're planning on renting an apartment. We just don't know where. Our requirements are as follows:

  • fairly quiet (so those three hundred empty apartments for rent above Times Square are out for starters)
  • somewhere were real people live (see above)
  • with real food shops (again with the not having millions of money we can't afford to eat out for every meal and anyway, we like cooking)
  • and nice cafes. Ones with baked goods.
  • That is generally just quite nice to walk around. We like just wandering and it would be nice to just wander straight from our house. (aka, somewhere pretty)
  • close to a subway station, for ease of just wondering in other places

What have I missed? What would you require? Where would you suggest we stay? There seems to be a general divide between the young, hip, cheap and slightly ugly neighbourhoods and the prettier, middle aged, trendy and more expensive locales.

For your amusement I offer you the exchange below, between me (P) and friends A and B via twitter and email (I paraphrase here and there) ....


P: Where should we stay in NY? What's Greenpoint like? We've found a cute little appartment there.

A: Fuck Greenpoint. It's full of hipsters and kind of ugly. B will probably suggest you stay there though. Park Slope is much nicer.

B: Fuck Park Slope, it's full of STROLLERS. How middle aged are you? Ignore A. Srsly. And hipster = cheaper

P: My head hurts.



. April, by Jen Bandini of Escape to New York

42 comments:

  1. Park Slope is nice and there are lots of shops/bakeries etc..also nice and quiet to walk around (especially Prospect Park). Although, if you're planning on doing a lot of city exploring, it will take you anywhere from a half hour to an hour to get to parts of Manhattan. If you stay there, grab a burger at Dram Shop and a nice pair of boots at Eric on Seventh.

    I'd also recommend Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. Definitely grab a bite at Frankies Spuntinos , where we are having our wedding reception and some pizza at Lucali. You could always take the IKEA shuttle or bus over to Red Hook where there are a ton of cute shops and little restaurant (check out Saipua for flowers/soaps).

    You might also want to check out Astoria in Queens. I bet you could get a good deal there (although not quite the same "pretty" look of Park Slope"). Delicious Greek food.

    If you have any questions, let me know!

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  2. Oh wow- very exciting! I dont really have anything useful to add- we stayed in the HoJo in Times square(Howard Johnsons- a bit like travel lodge. But 'HoJo's because we are hip)neither of which suite your requirements. But good luck finding an apartment! When are you going?

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  3. I love the upper east side. super safe...beautiful architecture...the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a stones throw away...yum yum yummmmmy fooderies...loads of adorable markets...

    I enjoy it everytime I travel to NYC.

    Or Alphabet City. I love it there too. Totally different vibe - more young and hipster (fewer moms with strollers) . We stay at East Side Bed & Coffee - and it's WONDERFUL!!!

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  4. I recommend Astoria in Queens, since you'll only be there a month. The exterior isn't as pretty, but most of the apartments are really great, it is close to all kinds of transportation, generally quiet, and tons of "real" shops around. Most of my friends that move to NY eventually end up migrating there haha. Good luck!

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  5. Hello! As a dedicated Brooklynite, I can say that hipster definitely doesn't equal cheaper, especially Williamsburg. And the neighborhoods where it does - Greenpoint, Bushwick, Crown Heights - also tend to equal dangerous. I would suggest Fort Green, amazing and expensive or Prospect Heights, definitely more affordable and very close to Prospect Park and the Brooklyn Museum as well as shops, subways, etc. I'd suggest Soda on Vanderbilt, Tom's Diner on Washington Ave and Washington Commons just down the street. And Park Slope and Carroll Gardens are also lovely - as per Jen. And if you are looking through Craigslist make sure the apartment is in the actual neighborhood and not "Park Slope adjacent" or the like, real estate in NYC can be a little tricky. I'm also happy to answer any questions. Good luck with your trip!

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  6. Another vote for Astoria. Preferably Upper Ditmars. It's where I grew up and is a fabulous combination of homey and convenient. It is beautiful, quiet, has cafe's galore, great combination of ethnicity and really just a dream.

    Here's a good clue to. Church bulletins usually post the best apartments for rent at reasonable prices ;)

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  7. Those places are in Brooklyn. As an ex-Manhattanite I must make that point. Were I to do what you are trying to do, i.e. stay cheaply but fun in New York, here's what works for hotels. Chinatown. Or the Bowery - right next to the hugest Whole Foods in the world. I do not know if apartments follow that model. Both areas have nightlife, somewhat gritty surroundings, color. Oh, and I hope you have the time of your life. Some part of me always hope to go back to New York and retire there. With millions of dollars...

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  8. Greenpoint is lovely and not necessarily full of hipsters (the sections I love usually are full of Polish people). However, while there are really pretty and nice parts with of the neighborhood with shops, parks and cafe . . . they tend to far away from subways besides the G, which just goes to Brooklyn and Queens (though I'm not dissing the G, I heart the G). BUT this does make it quiet.


    Fort Greene is a great suggestion. So is Astoria, Queens (if you choose Astoria, I'd look at the Ditmars Blvd area). Prospect Heights is also nice and you're near the park, Botanical gardens, and Brooklyn museum. I think that could be a good alternative to Park Slope.

    I love Park Slope, especially the Southern streets BUT the F train is sucking something fierce right now.

    Oh and I live in Williamsburg, with the hipsters. But I don't try to knock them too much - they have great restaurants and it's super convienient. If you did want to consider Williamsburg, I'd suggest looking a few blocks south off the Lorimer stop. There's some great bars and restaurants that aren't too hipstery.

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  9. Omg, yes, Jessis is right you MUST go to Tom's Diner.

    And I'm sure you have people to consult regarding location, but if you need any help let us know. I know when I was looking for an apartments, there were a lot of "Prospect Heights" apartments that were definitely a good 20 blocks away from what's really considered Prospect Heights.

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  10. Also - have you seen this website? http://www.airbnb.com/ It was just reviewed in the NY times.

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  11. @Jen
    Totally agree, though I'm not sure if you would like Astoria.In fact, I really don't think it's what you are looking for. It's... just not that cute or hip. Nice apartments sure, practical sure, but for vacation? I don't think so. I mean, I wouldn't even live there, jsut not my thing. The Slope and Carrol Gardens? Yes. Also try across Flatbush Ave from the slope (ie, between 5th Ave and the park, but if you're looking at google maps it would be on the right side of Flashbush, though I wouldn't go much farther than Washington. I'm not sure if that area really has a name, but it would be my *first* choice if we move back. Also, try anywhere between Prospect Park Southwest and the Expressway. The Parkside part of the park is where I lived, but it's dicey and not cute, so I'd skip that.

    @Jessica
    I do not care what B told you, Williamsberg is the most expensive part of Brooklyn these days. And so hip it hurts my skin. Also ugly. But lots of shops and cafes, and yes, very young.

    Prospect Heights would be my first choice for you. Cute-ish, close to the slope (walkable) more affordable. but you'll want to stay close to the park, it gets sketchy further in.

    Greenpoint? Maybe. But I doubt it's what you're looking for... transportation is a but of a pain, and it's not pretty. Nope, not at all.

    And you know you can send me any and all apartments, and I'll give you the scoop.

    And you can't afford Manhattan, unless you look at Harlem. Besides, you'll want something a little quieter.

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  12. You should def look into Fort Greene/ Clinton Hill area.

    When my friends and family come visit they rent one of these awesome brownstone apartments and they are really affordable compared to NY rates and seriously nice.

    Their site, Christmasrealty.com , seems to be down, but you can call them directly at (718) 230-3780 and I'm sure they'll send pics of whatever you require.

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  13. I live in Greenpoint, and it's my favorite! I've lived in Manhattan, Carroll Gardens, and Williamsburg, and I heart Greenpoint. But it is SUCH a matter of taste. Also, if you live on the Northern side you can walk up to the 7 train in Long Island City Queens, which is the BEST train! Greenpoint is Polish and somewhat industrial. It's not the prettiest, but it's a great neighborhood feel (yes to grocery stores), great Polish culture (bakeries!), and great scaled-back hipsterness ... more genuine, low-key, a little older than Williamsburg, but loads of fun restaurants, bars, indie shops, and cafes. Where in Greenpoint is the apartment you found??

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  14. Re: Fort Greene. Of course if you are around there, you have to hit up the Brooklyn Flea (http://www.brooklynflea.com/).

    @Meg I'll second your rec's. Park Slope/Prospect Heights seems a better fit than Astoria (although, I have nothing against Queens since I live there now and used to live in Park Slope). Greenpoint definitely negatives points on the transportation (the dreaded G train , boo).

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  15. Oh, PS. That picture looks to me like it was taken in Park Slope. I was assuming you knew that, but then realized, duh, you probably had no way of knowing that.

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  16. Oooh, the West Village is the prettiest neighborhood in Manhattan, hands down. Lovely winding streets with charming names, beautiful old townhouses, little cafes and shops tucked in to corners, lots of yummy restaurants. And it's very quiet, but close to subways. (Unfortunately, it's also rather pricey.)

    I like the upper west side, too. It's very residential, quiet, lots of old apartments buildings, shops and restaurants galore, close to central park, museums, etc.

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  17. Well they say that Manhattan is so gentrified that it has lost some of the original flavor. It doesn't matter where you move, as long as you sublet your apartment to me when you go on holiday.

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  18. p.s. Since Manhattan came up, yes, if you can find a place you can afford in the West Village or the East Village (for a little more grit), they are both places to be!! But so, so expensive. I think the East Village is the only neighborhood in Manhattan that still seems like the New York I dreamed of before I moved here.

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  19. I don't know if you read rockstar diaries, but Naomi and Husband are real New Yorkers. You should ask them.

    http://taza-and-husband.blogspot.com/

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  20. I've never been to NYC (well, once, for 3 days when I was 10), but I can just say this: My boyfriend's brother lives in Greenpoint. He is not a hipster and despises hipsters with all his heart. He is very verbal about it. The reason he chose Greenpoint is its proximity to everything (he works in Manhattan). And he loves it there. He claims that Williamsburg is hipster hell, not Greenpoint. I trust him very much on that statement :)

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  21. i think you'd like greenpoint okay but transfering to the G train is a pain in the but. that's why i'd never live there even though i like it (that plus the giant oil spill underground). anyway...what you described sounds a lot to me like park slope. even though there's a lot of strollers, there's still a lot of fun bars and restaurants, and it's so pretty and right by the lovely and huge prospect park. you might like fort greene too. definitely vet any possible apartment locations with your ny friends who can tell you if it is actually in the neighborhood proper that is advertised, not some sketchy outlying area of the neighborhood. ie with prospect heights you must be very careful about that because it turns unsafe within a matter of blocks.

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  22. Boreum Hill! I'm blocks from literally every subway. I've been here a while and it's definitely gotten more hip, but you can't go wrong in the Boreum Hill/Cobble Hill/Carroll Gardens area. And Fort Greene is awesome too.

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  23. I really like the Gramercy Park/Union Square area. I always stay at the Seafarers Mission, which is brilliantly central and cheap(although I know you want an apartment.) Union Square is brilliantly festive (not sure when you are going.) I stay there every single time - last time I was there for a month. And the great thing with New York is it's actually quite walkable - I was able to walk to Soho, the West Village and Lower East Side in 20 minutes.

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  24. My BFF lives in Carroll Gardens and it is totally stroller-town which is good or bad depending on whether or not that's your thing. It is WONDERFUL to walk around though--a million cafes and restos and teeny boutiques, and very subway-able.

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  25. Brooklyn: Brooklyn Heights (most centrally located to Manhattan every subway stops at Boro Hall practically only one stop away), Park Slope, Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, Carroll Gardens, Fort Greene.

    You've got the promenade which overlooks Manhattan (the most famous view of NY), you can walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Go down to Dumbo and have a brick oven pizza at Grimaldi's or homemade chocolate at Jacques Torres. Great photo ops between the bridges, have a pint at Superfine. Go over to Atlantic Avenue and stop in Sahadi's for great snacks from all over the world and then venture into all the antique shops up along the way, eat every different type of food imaginable...curried goat at the Jamaican restaurants, ostrich burgers at The Waterfront Ale House, baklava and spinach pies at the Lebanese Bakeries... there are plenty of Italian restaurants and bakeries over on Court Street... and Smith Street... they are filled with pubs, restaurants, boutiques, bookstores, clothing stores, cafes, tree lined streets, brownstones, secret gardens. Venture further down for more great hidden gems and photo ops in Red Hook.

    Brooklyn is the cats meow although if you stay in Williamsburg you might as well stay in Manhattan. Greenpoint and Astoria are great to visit but I wouldn't stay there if in NYC for a short time.

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  26. I don't know if this is poor etiquette, but I figured I'd want to know if I were you: in the past couple posts you've been spelling wAnder with an "o".

    Don't know anything about NYC, except that it's been a beautiful whirlwind every time I've been. Hope you have a wonderful time and provide the rest of us with plenty of photos!

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  27. I'd go with the West Village. Park Slope definitely too many strollers but it is beautiful. Don't know a whole lot about Greenpoint, just that it is full of hipsters. Carroll Gardens I loveeee, but if you have the dough I'd definitely take the W. Village!

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  28. I live in the East Village and I love love love it. How long are you staying in April? I may know some people subletting their place. The East Village is so perfect that time of year, with all the small cafes and funky shops. If you can find a place in your price range, I would recommend it! The main avenues (A, 1st, 2nd, 3rd) are more lively while the side streets (Houston - 14th) are quiet and pretty! There is tons to explore in the are and is perfectly located within walking or subway distance to Brooklyn, West Village, Lower East Side, and upper Manhattan. Let me know if you need any more info :)

    Bonne chance!

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  29. i live in greenpoint, and that comment is ridiculous. there are lovely parts of it (especially on the west side - try to rent on the west side of McGuiness). it has amazing restaurants (some very affordable), some decent regular grocery stores, and the garden (a nice organic grocery store). also, greenpoint is NOT dangerous. I live on india street and franklin avenue (check google maps) and it's lovely. I've lived there for over 3 years, and have tons of friends in the neighborhood. if you are on the north side of greenpoint, transportation isn't bad - you can take the bus or walk to the 7 train (super convenient) and the G train is just a pain late at night. anyway, i love it! and if you stay in greenpoint i promise to send loads of suggestions of where to eat/shop/drink/explore!

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  30. I haven't a clue if anyone has suggested this site yet and I've never actually been to New York BUT I did just rent an apartment in Rome through this company and it was fabulous and really well priced. They also have apartments in New York so it's worth checking out...Here's the site:

    http://www.only-apartments.com/apartments-new-york.html

    Hope it helps!

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  31. My first recommendation would be Park Slope (but I might be biased because it's the neighborhood I live in and LOVE LOVE LOVE!) There are some great places to eat. It's safe and beautiful. Prospect Heights is ok, lived there for a minute, but was happy to be in the slope.

    I sometimes dream of living in Greenpoint, but I agree with what the others said... Transportation isn't as ideal and it isn't as pretty (but sometimes that's nice and New Yorkish to take in).

    Carroll Gardens, Boerum Hill, and Fort Greene always seem really nice too. I don't think you'd go wrong in any of these...

    I know a lot of people who live in Astoria, but I personally don't think it's that pretty... Then again, I've only really spent a little bit of time there.

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  32. my absolute favorite part of nyc is the village, but so is everyone else's, so i don't know if that's economically feasible. if you were going to stay in brooklyn, i would definitely not stay as far away as park slope, unless you plan to spend most of your time in brooklyn. the train ride into the city from there is ridiculous. i love queens, so i'm a bit biased.... if you're not tied to brooklyn, long island city is convenient to manhattan and brooklyn. just my 2 cents. i'm anticipating the "where should we eat question" cuz i have a list as long as 4-5-6!

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  33. p.s. the photo was taken on the upper east side... somewhere in the 70s close to the park

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  34. I lived in the West Village and I LOVED living there! I knew my neighbors, many of whom had been in the Village their whole lives, and conversed with them daily. There are cafes, book shops, butchers, World of Video... seriously everything you need!

    I found a rent stabilized studio which was totally reasonable and has a marble fireplace. Definitely would recommend it!!!

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  35. I lived in the West Village and I LOVED living there! I knew my neighbors, many of whom had been in the Village their whole lives, and conversed with them daily. There are cafes, book shops, butchers, World of Video... seriously everything you need!

    I found a rent stabilized studio which was totally reasonable and has a marble fireplace. Definitely would recommend it!!!

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  36. Ignore the Manhattan types -- Brooklyn is absolutely the place to be! And I heartily second the recommendations for Boerum Hill/Carroll Gardens/Cobble Hill. But avoid the "F" train if you can; it's just too slow and annoying.

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  37. If this is your first time in NY I would def. stay in Manhattan for convenience's sake. Somewhere between Bleecker and 14th Street, not too far east (don't go into the alphabets) or west - you will have access to all of the trains. And during the winter that is important! There are affordable places to be found in the city.

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  38. just putting this out there... i just moved from Park Slope and i don't own a stroller or a child. it's great, quiet, loads of cute little shops, cafes, a green market on saturday and one of the prettiest parks. but.. it can be very expensive. if you decided to look at park slope try looking at surrounding neighborhoods like Windsor Terrace or Kennsington... anything near the Fort Hamilton stop on the F train. the F runs local so it does take around 30 mins to get into the city but it's such a wonderful neighborhood it's worth it. i'm sure no matter where you stay you'll have a wonderful time!

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  39. don't fret! give uptown a try... while the young and fabulous tend to think the only place to stay is downtown or brooklyn, there really are some cute, quiet affordable places uptown. i live on the upper east side, in the 60s and i love my little neighborhood, lots of friendly folks and families. be sure to email me if you need further suggestions or want me to check out a neighborhood for you :) xo

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  40. Wow, this is just daunting to read the suggestions, I can't imagine how overwhelmed - and excited! - it must make you feel.

    I've just spent nearly two weeks in new York with my best mate. We've rented a really great apartment in Williamsburg which is full of hipsters and cheese shops and amazing vintage clothes and good cages and hipsters. Which is ok cause I would probably be classified as a hipster.

    Can I let you in on a secret? ALL of new York is amazing and beautiful and every suburb has great cafes and great shopping. The subway is cheap and easy. Any apartment in greenwich villahe, west village, east village, soho, lower east side, williamsburg, park slope, greenpoint whatever will be fucking amazing because you are in new York fuckig city and it is the coolest city in the world. Every person we meet recommends their favourite cafe/bar/shop and we try and go there but there are so many god damn places in this city that are good that it is impossible to try them all.

    One of my new yorker friends told me that the ONLY thing you should do in new York city is not have plans. Which I don't entirely agree with - Some things you just can't miss ie MoMA - but it definitely nice to just have a little picnic in central park, hang out in a bookshop, look at clothes, wander the streets then take a nap. New York is good for naps.

    Basically the only way to do EVERYTHING in new York is be rich and move there. Which sounds kinda fabulous...

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  41. Bwaha. But seriously. FUCK PARK SLOPE. And fuck the upper east side.

    Also, it's cracking me up that everyone's going out of their way to distance themselves from the dirty dirty hipsters. Except Elissa. Elissa seems cool.

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  42. That's because she lives in Greenpoint, which really is the coolest affordable neighborhood in NYC. Thank you, ESB, for saying what I didn't want to about Park Slope.

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play nice.